7 Tips for Coping with Smoking in Paris

If you’re heading to Paris and sensitive to cigarette smoke, you’re not alone. One of the most noticeable cultural differences for U.S. travelers is how common outdoor smoking still is.

Paris isn’t lawless – there are smoking rules – but they’re looser than what most Americans are used to. Here’s a clear, honest guide to help you deal with it without letting it ruin your trip.

1. Expect smoke in most outdoor spaces – even at restaurants

In the U.S., smoke-free outdoor dining is normal. In Paris, it’s the opposite. Most café terraces, patios, and sidewalk tables are open to smoking, and many already have ashtrays set out. That includes covered patios, even those with plastic walls in the winter.

If you’re eating outdoors, there’s a good chance someone nearby will be smoking. Some travelers move tables, ask politely, or just deal with it. If avoiding smoke is important to you, it’s worth sitting inside, even if the terrace view is tempting.

2. Don’t count on “no smoking” areas to be enforced

In theory, smoking is banned indoors and in certain public places. In reality, rules are loosely enforced once you’re outside. People light up at parks, bus stops, and even in theme park lines.

Designated smoking zones exist at places like Disneyland Paris and train stations, but they’re easy to miss – and often ignored.

You’ll also see plenty of vaping, which is treated almost the same as smoking. Unless there’s a clear sign, most people vape freely in public areas.

3. If you’re a former smoker, Paris can be triggering

Many ex-smokers say Paris is the hardest place to visit while staying quit. The visual cues are constant: people smoking at café tables, chatting with a cigarette in hand, or lighting up outside the bakery.

If you’re in a delicate phase of quitting, think twice before planning a trip there, or prepare strategies ahead of time to stay on track.

Some travelers time their trips for when they’re not actively quitting. Others use nicotine gum or lozenges to manage the temptation.

4. Indoor dining is your best option to avoid smoke

Indoor dining in Paris is smoke-free and generally respected. If the weather allows, many Americans opt for outdoor tables, only to realize too late that it often means dining next to clouds of cigarette smoke.

If you’re sensitive, sit indoors, even if it feels like you’re missing out on the Paris sidewalk café experience. You’ll still enjoy good food and service, and you won’t leave smelling like smoke.

5. Know that disapproval doesn’t get you far here

Giving dirty looks or making comments about someone smoking won’t change much in Paris. Smoking is still a normalized habit in public spaces, and Parisians generally don’t react to silent protests or passive-aggressive glares.

If you’re truly uncomfortable, it’s more effective to move than to confront. Even politely asking someone to stop may come off as odd, especially since locals see smoking outdoors as entirely within their rights.

6. Don’t expect air to be better in covered patios or winter terraces

What looks like outdoor seating may actually be a closed-in smoking area. In colder months, many terraces are enclosed in plastic or glass to keep out the chill, but smoking is still allowed. That traps the smoke and makes the air worse than outside.

If you’re eating during the colder season, enclosed terraces are often worse than open-air ones. When in doubt, peek inside first or just stick to the interior dining room.

7. If it really bothers you, adjust your expectations, not the culture

Paris isn’t going to adapt to American norms on smoking anytime soon. Trying to change it or getting angry about it will just make your trip more frustrating.

Instead, be prepared. Choose non-smoking hotels or request smoke-free rooms. Pick indoor tables. Avoid high-traffic café strips if you want clean air.

And if you need a break, head to larger parks like Parc Monceau or Jardin du Luxembourg, places where there’s more space to move away from smoke.