Brasserie L’Hôtel du Nord: A Historic Parisian Restaurant and Movie Icon
L’Hôtel du Nord is one of Paris’ most iconic restaurants, sitting along the picturesque Canal Saint-Martin in the 10th arrondissement. With its rich history and cinema fame, this charming place draws locals and visitors to its scenic location by the water, surrounded by trendy cafés, shops, and art spaces.
History and Cinematic Legacy
Although the building itself dates back to 1873, it first opened as a hotel in 1912, originally owned by Mr. and Mrs. Dabit who also ran a small stable and laundry in the picturesque courtyard.
In the 1930s, the hotel became a modest haven for workers, sailors, and people passing through Paris. It featured a narrow staircase and rooms overlooking the canal.
The location and its simple atmosphere inspired Eugène Dabit’s novel Hôtel du Nord, published in 1929. The book depicted the lives of ordinary Parisians and working-class Paris.
In 1938, the story was adapted into a film by film director Marcel Carné.
The film focuses on the lives of the hotel’s guests, particularly a tragic love story that captured the heart of Paris in the 1930s. Although the actual hotel was not used for filming, the location’s image became iconic due to the film’s success.
One particular line from the movie: “Atmosphere, atmosphere… Does this face look like atmosphere?“, delivered by actress Arletty, became legendary across generations. To date, the film still remains a key piece of French cinematic history.
Saving a Parisian Icon
In the 1970s, the building fell into disrepair and faced the threat of demolition. Plans to replace it with residential apartments were approved, but the love for the Hôtel du Nord, both as a historic building and a piece of French cinema led to a public protest.
Artists and residents organized protests, and in 1989, the façade of the building was listed as a historic monument, saving it from demolition.
The Bistro
As you enter L’Hôtel du Nord, the original 1930s zinc bar immediately catches the eye, complete with a vintage coffee percolator. The bistro features preserved two-tone “tile-cement” floors, red leather bench-seats, and white ceramic-tiled walls – old Parisian café style.
The bistro is bright and casual, with no tablecloths. Guests can enjoy classic French bistro food. On sunny days, the front terrace extends onto the canal, while the back patio offers a quieter retreat. On Sundays, people come for a relaxing brunch.
The Restaurant
Opened in 1996, the restaurant L’Hôtel du Nord was restored to retain the charm of the original space. The interior still features the zinc floors, black-and-white tiled walls, and cozy tables. It has a mix of traditional and contemporary French dishes including vegetarian meals and homemade treats.
The atmosphere is warm and inviting, particularly in the evening, with its dimmed lights, flickering candles on each table, tablecloths, and framed black-and-white film posters. A corner lounge with sofas also offers a quiet spot for an aperitif or after-dinner drink.
L’Hôtel du Nord’s location by the Canal Saint-Martin greatly contributes to its success. The canal is a lively and scenic part of Paris, with its narrow waters, bridges, and surrounding cafés. It’s a pleasant area to explore before or after dining at the Hôtel du Nord.