Le Procope: Dining at Paris’ Oldest Café
Le Procope has been around since 1686, the oldest café in Paris! That alone is enough to draw crowds, but it’s also been a gathering place for big names in history – Voltaire, Rousseau, Diderot, Robespierre, and even Napoleon.
This place is where the idea for L’Encyclopédie by Diderot and d’Alembert was born, a groundbreaking work that aimed to collect and share all human knowledge of the time.
With that kind of past, it feels like a must-visit for anyone curious about Parisian history. But what about the food, service, and overall experience?
The Setting
The location is hard to beat. Le Procope sits in the 6th arrondissement, in a charming little street near Odéon. The entrance is framed by a deep blue facade with gold lettering, wooden paneling, and vintage-style lanterns.
Inside, it feels like going back in time. The walls are lined with 18th-century portraits, old books, and historical artifacts, including what’s said to be Napoleon’s hat. Chandeliers hang from the ceiling, and the deep red velvet chairs add to the old-world atmosphere. It’s elegant, but not stuffy.
The restaurant is large with multiple rooms across different levels. Some are dimly lit and intimate, while others feel more like a classic brasserie.
The Menu & Prices
Le Procope serves traditional French food, straight out of a historical cookbook. Some of the most talked-about dishes include:
- Coq au vin – slow-cooked chicken in red wine sauce
- Tête de veau – a calf’s head dish that’s not for the faint of heart
- Beef cheek braised in Burgundy wine – rich and tender
- Ravioli in truffle cream sauce – a surprise hit for many diners
- Mille-feuille – a divine layered pastry dessert with cream
There’s also a seafood section with oysters and prawns, plus a solid wine list.
Prices are on the high side for what you get. Expect to spend €20-€30 for a main dish and around €10-€15 for appetizers and desserts. A full meal with wine can easily reach €50-€70 per person. Not the priciest spot in Paris, but it’s not a budget meal either.
Check out the menus here
Dish photos
The Experience
Service at Le Procope is one of the biggest question marks. Some visitors say they had a fantastic experience with friendly, efficient waitstaff. Others describe inattentive service, long waits, and an overall lack of warmth. My visit fell somewhere in between. The staff was polite but not particularly engaged, and (as often in France) it took a while to get the check.
The food itself is decent but doesn’t seem to wow everyone. My beef cheek was tender and flavorful, but the coq au vin was just okay – not bad, just not exceptional. The highlight was the mille-feuille, which was flaky, creamy, and worth every bite.
What Other Customers Say
Le Procope gets mixed reviews, and after visiting, I see why. Here’s a breakdown of what diners love and what they don’t:
The Good:
✔ The historical ambiance is unique and makes the visit feel special
✔ The desserts, especially the mille-feuille, get a lot of praise
✔ Some dishes, like the ravioli and braised beef cheek, are well-executed
✔ For history lovers, eating in the same space as Voltaire is an experience
The Not-So-Good:
✖ Service can be slow or indifferent, depending on the day
✖ Some dishes are underwhelming, especially considering the price
✖ It can be seen as more of a tourist attraction than a serious dining spot
✖ Prices feel steep for the quality of the food
Practical info
Le Procope is at 13 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, 75006 Paris.
Hours: Monday to Sunday from 12:00 PM to 12:00 AM. The Procope café lounge is open Monday to Friday from 3 PM to 6 PM, without reservations.
Conclusion
Le Procope is worth visiting if you care about the history. The setting is fantastic, and there’s something fun about dining in a place where Enlightenment thinkers once debated ideas over coffee.
If you’re looking for the best food in Paris though, this may not be where you’ll find it. The quality is good but doesn’t always match the prices or the prestige of the restaurant’s name.
Would I go back? Maybe for dessert and a glass of wine. If you go, go for the atmosphere, keep your expectations in check, and definitely save room for the mille-feuille.
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Credits: cover photo courtesy of Le Procope