6 Days on the Riviera Without a Car
Planning a trip to the French Riviera and wondering if you really need a car? Plenty of travelers want to enjoy the coast without the hassle of driving and parking, especially in high season.
Here’s a full breakdown of how to do it based on real experiences.
Why Nice Makes the Best Base
If you’re planning to explore the Riviera without a car, basing yourself in Nice is the smartest move. It’s well connected by train and bus, the old town is lively and walkable, and you’ll find plenty to do right in the city between day trips.
Even with a 6-day stay, many travelers find Nice to be the highlight. The beaches, food, atmosphere, and access to other towns make it an ideal hub.
Old Nice is particularly charming, though it’s a 25-minute walk from the main train station. You can use the tram if needed, but most people end up walking.
The beaches are rocky, so bring a yoga mat or soft pad if you’re planning to sit. Local shops do sell them, but prices vary a lot.
If you prefer convenience and comfort, beach clubs like Opera Beach Club offer loungers, umbrellas, and towels- However, they close by 6 PM.
Where You Can Go Without a Car
The local TER train network runs like a metro system along the coast, with regular service from early morning until late night. You can easily reach Villefranche-sur-Mer, Beaulieu, Eze beach, Monaco, Menton, Antibes, and Cannes.
Travel times are usually under 45 minutes, though trains can get packed, especially between 5 and 6 PM when everyone heads back to Nice.
To reach Eze Village, you’ll need to take bus 82 or 112. It’s about a 30-minute ride, but the bus gets crowded fast, especially in high season. Go early and board at the first stop if you want a seat.
You’ll also pass through Beaulieu-sur-Mer, a quieter coastal town that gives access to the peninsula of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
From Beaulieu, you can walk or take a short bus ride to reach the walking trails and the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.
From Eze Village, there’s a scenic downhill trail that leads to Eze beach and the train station.
Menton is worth a full-day trip. You can start with the covered market and the old town in the morning, then spend the afternoon visiting gardens like the Serre de la Madone or Val Rahmeh. The beach is a good place to wind down before taking the train back.
The small seaside town of Theoule-sur-Mer, west of Cannes, is also mentioned as a peaceful and scenic stop, though less frequently visited. A change of pace from the more crowded resort towns.
Should You Rent a Car?
You don’t need a car to enjoy the Riviera, but having one for a day or two opens access to inland villages. Grasse is reachable by train, but getting to the smaller hilltop spots can be tricky without a vehicle.
Renting a car for a short window gives you flexibility without dealing with parking in Nice for your entire stay. However, car rentals in France can be expensive. Expect to pay over $100 per day once you factor in insurance, gas, and parking.
Some of the most rewarding inland spots, like Gourdon, a tiny hilltop village with panoramic views, are really only accessible by car or via day tours.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence, another highlight for many travelers, is included in popular countryside tours and can be difficult to reach otherwise.
If you do rent, avoid driving in central Nice. Instead, pick up your car from the airport or station, use it to explore, then return it and go back to walking and public transport.
A few travelers also mentioned using mopeds or scooters to reach nearby towns like Eze and Monaco. It’s a faster and more flexible option,just be aware of safety and traffic on coastal roads.
Day Tours That Work
One way to cover more ground is to take a guided day tour from Nice. A typical Provence countryside tour from Nice includes stops in Grasse, Gourdon, Saint-Paul-de-Vence, and sometimes Cannes.
Tours typically offer a mix of perfume workshops, hilltop views, and medieval lanes. They are designed for efficiency and usually allow enough time in each spot for a meaningful visit (if you don’t spend the whole stop at a café).
Here’s a popular such tour from Nice.
If you’re interested in making your own perfume in Grasse, though, you might want to plan that separately. Workshops typically last 1-2 hours, which may not fit into a group tour schedule.
Alternatively, you can do the perfume workshop in Nice itself. Molinard offers a one-hour and a two-hour version. It’s hands-on and fun for all ages, and it’s easy to book online. The shorter version gives you a 75ml bottle, which is carry-on friendly.
Best Towns for a Day Trip
The village of Eze is truly a must. The views are stunning, and the village itself is compact but memorable. Dining options are limited and pricey, so consider bringing lunch.
After exploring, you can hike down to the beach and relax near the train station. It’s one of the quieter beaches along the coast, with some shade and fewer crowds.
Menton offers a relaxed pace, great local food, and beautiful public gardens. It feels more authentic and less commercial than places like Cannes.
Antibes is popular for its sandy beaches and art galleries, though it can feel crowded. Cannes, by contrast, is more polished and luxury-focused. You’ll find all the designer stores, upscale beach clubs, and a more formal vibe.
Monaco gets mixed opinions. Some people find it fascinating for a few hours – the Oceanographic Museum and Monte Carlo Casino are mentioned often. Others find it underwhelming. Still, most agree it’s worth seeing once.
When to Go and What to Expect
Crowds are a reality in June and July, especially in the afternoon. Trains and buses fill up fast, and standing room only is common. If you plan ahead, go early, and pace your day trips, it’s entirely manageable.
Restaurant reservations aren’t usually necessary except at very popular spots. One pizzeria in Nice, Les Amoureux, gets frequent praise, often called the best pizza travelers have ever had. Expect to wait, but they serve wine in line, and you can take your pizza to the beach for sunset.
Final Tips
If you want to relax, eat well, and take a few scenic day trips, staying in Nice without a car is completely doable. You’ll save money and stress, and still experience much of what makes the Côte d’Azur great.
If you’re aiming to reach remote inland towns or explore deeper into Provence, renting a car for a couple of days adds flexibility. But even without one, you won’t be short on places to go or things to see.
You can see a lot without driving a single kilometer. On the other hand, if your goal is to reach tucked-away villages, renting a car for a day or joining a group tour is the only realistic way.